The ambient temperature in the room is 65 degrees and and the temperature in the wort fermented at was 70 degrees no smallbatchbrewer it the chinook kit.
Thanks loopie_beer for the information I will sit a wait till it time to bootleg the product.
I guess I’m just going to have to be patient and wait for it to do it thing.
Thanks - US-05 at 70* will ferment very fast and leave krausen that high on the side of the fermenter. If you can keep the fermentation temperature in the 65* range, active fermentation will take a couple of more days and typically US-05 won’t leave krausen that high on the fermenter.
I’ll agree with @loopie_beer that this looks typical for a 1st kit without temperature control (that was fermented on the high range). My experiences with one gallon kits with regard to pitching rates and active fermentation times are quite different than his.
Two weeks from brew day to bottling day. Two weeks from bottling day to first bottle. Consider settting aside two bottles to open two months after bottling day.
1 Like
So will one of the forum admins be updating the “Hydrometers You need one, here is how to use one” with information on how one gallon batch brewers should do this? It looks like most of the “heavy lifting” was already done here assuming the one gallon recipe kits come with OG / FG measurements in the instructions.
Thanks for the replies I will have to invest in hydrometer for the next time I make some beer.
I would like to see someone come up with a slimmer, and taller fermenter for onee brewers… Then they can put a well sanitized hydrometer right in there to see how its doing… Simple , eh? Sneezles61
I’m going to suggest spending your next homebrewing dollars on a good introductory homebrewing book (and wait for @loopie_beer to finalize those hydrometer instructions for one gallon batches 
).
I’ll suggest “The Brew Your Own Big Book of Homebrewing” (https://www.amazon.com/Brew-Your-Own-Book-Homebrewing/dp/0760350469) $9.99 in eBook format.
Did you not have any krausen going. Looks like you had some action going on. Indeed get a hydrometer or a refrectometer to see if your yeast did something. You did use. Us5 yeast. That stuff normaly works perfect. Did you cool the wort before you did pitch the yeast. And rehydrate you yeast with some water before you did pitch the yeast. Could be you yeast not active enough. But still doing something. Now just wait and see
Yes, but … (and the forum has been down this path before without providing a good answer) … in order to use a hydrometer or refractometer, OG and FG values are needed. When I did one gallon kits, these numbers were not in the printed instructions. Last time I looked, these values were not in the online copy of the instructions.
One thing that will have a major positive impact on the beer when brewing the 2nd one gallon kit is temperature control during fermentation. With US-05 yeast, being able to ferment with the wort temperature at ~ 65* (+/- 1 degree) for the first couple of days will have more impact on the outcome than specific gravity measurements. (note that other yeast may have different temperature profiles .
What you might wanna do get a hydrometer. Look for the recipy on line. Like brewers friend. You get. Og and fg. Might not be accurate. For this brew you did. But at least see if fermenting took place
If you mean OG and FG numbers need to be provided in the kit, then I say Not True.
The hydrometer is what you use to to determine your specific batch’s OG and FG values. And if you look at the larger kits, both extract and all grain, all they really give you is an estimate of the OG. (No FG) Granted, for extract kits OG estimates are pretty much spot on, but for all-grain recipes, the brewer’s efficiency can have a significant impact on OG, which is why it’s often referred to as the “target OG” it is quite common for all-grain brewers to have OG readings several points off the target. My last brew, a 3-gal all-grain, had a specified target of 1.060, but I measured 1.070 in the fermenter because I did better than the estimated 75% efficiency.
I believe they don’t provide OG numbers so as to make the kits less scary for new brewers. While collecting, and using the numbers is pretty easy, understanding them is a little harder.
What’s “not good” about the answers in other forum posts?
Agreed.
Still waiting …
Don’t wait. If you think the post is missing detail, go ahead and add it.
What’s the difference between readings on a 1gal batch and a 5gal batch?
In this context, nothing.
But context matters.
For one gallon kits, estimated OG/FG values are not provided. Instructions on when to top off to one gallon are not provided. Taking three OG/FG measurements will cost two bottles in a one gallon kit (with a carboy, one goes from maybe 8 to maybe 6 bottles). So there are lots of details that go along with suggesting taking hydrometer measurements with one gallon kits.
It seemed reasonable to suggest that someone who is a proponent of taking these hydrometer measurements (my refractometer works for me) update the post with information on how to do this for one gallon kits.
Well, there you have it! 
Thats the problem with 1-ees… Not much room to test… I still can’t buy into the refractometer for a finishing reading… but then, how much does it matter? Sneezles61
