False bottom

Hi all,

Last weekend i did my first all grain batch this past weekend and had an issue with my false bottom. It takes a good 2 gallons for the water to even start reaching the top of the false bottom. So any number i calculate for how much strike water to use i need to add at least 2-3 gallons more onto it. Will this be an issue because i only do 5 gal batches and it seems like i am putting in a lot of water and still will need to have sparge water to use still.

I was thinking of just ditching the false bottom and using a screen at the bottom to absorb the water instead.

Any suggestions?

[quote=“ahausmann”]Hi all,

Last weekend i did my first all grain batch this past weekend and had an issue with my false bottom. It takes a good 2 gallons for the water to even start reaching the top of the false bottom. So any number i calculate for how much strike water to use i need to add at least 2-3 gallons more onto it. Will this be an issue because i only do 5 gal batches and it seems like i am putting in a lot of water and still will need to have sparge water to use still.

I was thinking of just ditching the false bottom and using a screen at the bottom to absorb the water instead.

Any suggestions?[/quote]

I have the exact set up. My 15 gallon kettle takes 2 gallons to reach the false bottom. I brewed today, and figured 1.2 quarts per pound of grain. I had 13.75 pounds of grain which came out to be 4.125 gallons for strike water. I filled to the bottom of the false bottom,then added the 4.125 gallons. After my first running I collected 4.2 gallons of wort because I drained until the wort quit coming out of the ball valve. I have about 1 gallon between the false bottom and the ball valve. I wanted to end up with 8.5 gallons pre boil, so I batch sparged with 4.5 gallons. I ended up with just over 8.25 gallons pre boil. When you figure the amount of sparge water, after you do your first running, subtract that from the amount you want pre boil, and that is how much sparge water you need. Keep trying, it does get easier. Oh, I ended up with 6.5 gallons after the boil, but ditched the last .75 gallon because of turb. :cheers:

I don’t see any issue with the extra water.

Depending on the amount of grain you are mashing (12lbs), you would still be below a 2qt/lb ration. The less grain, the higher the ratio.

1 thing I can think of, don’t drain your 1st runings completely. Leave 1-2 gallons behind. that way you have more liquid in the mix when you add your sparge water. If you are batch sparging. If you are fly sparging, it’s not an issue.

Same setup here. Just add enough water to get above the false bottom to your strike water volume and subtract that amount from your sparge water volume. Even though the water is under the false bottom, you still consider it when calculating your strike temperature. Don’t worry about the increased water to grain ratio. It will turn out fine.

Awesome thanks for the advice!! i am going to try a oatmeal stout here the next couple weeks

I am going to do a partial mash with my false bottom. But it takes my mash volume just to reach the false bottom. Will mashing in almost twice as much water be a problem?

5.25 lbs grain in 3 gals water (1.5 gal to false + 1.5 original mash vol)

I need to get this figured ASAP it’s getting late. I wanted to be started by now, but I got distracted this morning.

Thanks.

HAve you tried using a mesh bag instead of a false bottom?

Well I have in the past i am just using my big kettle today w/ the bottom and was going to use the bag and the bottom. But you’re right, I’ll just pull the false and go brew as planned water wise.

Thanks. sometimes i miss the obvious answer.
:cheers:

But for future reference if someone does know please post. If it doesn’t affect all grain, it probably should matter in a partial right?