[quote=“rustyhoover”]First, let me say that talking about real brewhouse efficiency is a bit complicated and very recipe- and equipment-dependent.
Forget about the mash and lauter, here are the other variables we’ve got to deal with:
Hop absorbtion:
Brewing an IPA with several oz of leaf hops and you are losing a good bit. A simple lager with 20 or so IBU’s of pellets is a completely different story. Hop bag or free-floating? This makes a big difference in my experience as well.
Transfer losses:
Some people like to avoid getting sludge in the primary, so they get a fair amount of loss in the transfer from kettle to primary. Others dump it all in, but it’s got to get left behind at some point, so those losses will hit you to some extent when transferring to secondary, keg, or bottling vessel.
What kind of yeast are you using? Does it floc well? Are you anal about getting rid of all you can before serving? Are you in a rush, or will you wait until everything falls out of suspension?
How do you chill your wort? If you’re using a counterflow chiller, I’ve always found that you lose some wort that is held in the tubing and chiller. Also, if you like to leave sanitizer in your chiller and dump the first little bit of wort to avoid getting much in the primary, you’re losing more there.
So, in effect, you may be trading sanitation risk for a little better efficiency.
Take a few hydro readings and you’re losing a little more.
Dry-hop in the keg or secondary? Again, hope you’re not losing leaf hops!
Long story short, I suspect it’s borderline impossible to get true brewhouse efficiency of 85% in some cases, even if you get maximum mash efficiency…[/quote]
Interesting comments. When I usually measure my brewhouse efficiency, it’s “beer volume & gravity as it is in the fermenter, before yeast is added.” That said, I usually have in the range of 4.9-5.2 gallons into the keg. Rarely do I underfill my kegs.