I’m going to build a collar for my chest freezer to install taps, but I’ve got a quick question.
It looks like my hinges won’t line back up with the original holes when I add the collar. Is it OK to drill a couple small holes in the back of my chest freezer? I’m thinking 1/2" screws.
Did you check out the video that NB put together on making a Keezer?
In that they specified that the hinges will probably not line up with all the holes and gave instructions on making it work. Granted, when I build one I’ll probably do things a little differently, but the instructions they give certainly will work just fine.
[quote=“lil_Blue_Ford”]Did you check out the video that NB put together on making a Keezer?
In that they specified that the hinges will probably not line up with all the holes and gave instructions on making it work. Granted, when I build one I’ll probably do things a little differently, but the instructions they give certainly will work just fine.[/quote]
Yeah, I’ve watched that video a few times. I don’t see where they offer instructions on what to do if you’re screw holes don’t line up, however. Could you give me the time during the video it happens?
They said something when they were removing the lid about using the existing holes to help with choosing the height of the lumber you buy, but that won’t work for me. I have a lid light that I’d like to keep functioning, and I only have about 4-5" of slack on the wire attached to the lid. I have to use 2"X4".
Why let a wire dictate the collar height??
Is this a wire to power lights in the lid? Or a door switch to turn the light on? In the first case cut the wire and splice in a disconnect, so can remove the lid when needed. You can make it as long as you like. In the second case you may find a better switch to splice on.
Either way, do an “inline splice” using solder and shrink tube for a perminant, professional looking job.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Master- ... /?ALLSTEPSWhy let a wire dictate the collar height??
Is this a wire to power lights in the lid? Or a door switch to turn the light on? In the first case cut the wire and splice in a disconnect, so can remove the lid when needed. You can make it as long as you like. In the second case you may find a better switch to splice on.
Either way, do an “inline splice” using solder and shrink tube for a perminant, professional looking job.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Master- ... /?ALLSTEPS[/quote]The wire just powers the lid light as far as I can tell. I’ve considered cutting but I’ve been afraid cutting the wire will screw up the freezer. I think this might be an unfounded fear though. Cutting the wire will probably just mean the lid light is inoperable, right?
And really, I’d prefer a 4" collar.
So, it cutting/splicing the wire better than drilling maybe 1/2" screws into the freezer wall from the outside?
Cutting the wire shouldn’t mess up the freezer, unless you leave exposed bare wire that can short out. You can show thistle yourself by removing the light bulb. Which will have the same effect.
Knowing nothing about the design of your freezer, I have to wonder if the 4-5 inches of slack isn’t there for a reason, and even if you stick with a 2x4 collar, are you removing slack that’s there for strain relief?
[quote=“JMcK”]Cutting the wire shouldn’t mess up the freezer, unless you leave exposed bare wire that can short out. You can show thistle yourself by removing the light bulb. Which will have the same effect.
Knowing nothing about the design of your freezer, I have to wonder if the 4-5 inches of slack isn’t there for a reason, and even if you stick with a 2x4 collar, are you removing slack that’s there for strain relief?[/quote]
I’m assuming that’s what it’s there for. 4-5" is all I can get, so maybe having it pulled taught isn’t the best idea.
But again, in your opinion, is cutting the wire preferable to drilling into the side of the freezer? I don’t have any schematics for the freezer, so I’d just be drilling blindly but only using very short screws.
