Back to Shopping at

Burton salt addition

I have my water report in hand, and using I am trying to mimic Burton water salt levels. It is telling me to use 7 tsps of gypsum! I am just skeptical to load it in and possibly ruin a batch.

That does sound like a lot, but I weigh salt additions, so it could be accurate.IDK.
Are you trying to achieve ~300 ppm sulfate, or more,or is this for >10 gallons?

5 gallon batch and I think it was 28 grams of gypsum.

[quote=“Zube42”]5 gallon batch and I think it was 28 grams of gypsum.[/quote]Something’s not right - 10g of gypsum in 5 gallons of DI water yields 295ppm sulfate.

I strongly caution against using Burton-like concentrations for brewing. Better beer is generally created when using less mineralized water. I prefer the maximum sulfate level at around 300 ppm as mentioned above for pale ales and IPA’s.

Thanks for the replies. Now for a completely off topic question on sparging: I batch sparge and when I am suppose to “sparge at 170” does that mean 170 is my sparge strike temp or the target of the actual sparge (with strike being obviously higher than 170)?

If you do a mash out (meaning your mash was at 170 ish already), then your batch sparge water should be 170, or maybe a little higher (you will lose some temperature during the course of the first runoff). If you don’t do a mash out, then your sparge water should be hot enough to bring the grain up to approximately 170. Keep an eye on temperature as you add sparge water, and just make sure the end result isn’t significantly over 170, which will bring out astringency. If it looks like its getting too hot, you can usually keep the temp down just by adding water more slowly and stirring more.

Back to Shopping at