That’s why I don’t see the point in buying kits. If you know your efficiency you can Get the exact OG and volume your looking for And match the recipe bu/gu ratio. If your beer ends up thin it will have more to do with your FG being low.
Now theres were this topic can git a bit blurred. When I think of efficiency, it is from start to finish volume/gravity. I don’t really see where the need to analyze just the mash, yet I do check for the sake of notes. I also don’t purposely see at the end of the boil, if my gravity is low, to go ahead and boil longer to get it up OR add DME. My system turns out 80% very consistently. So that is how I base my grain bill. So do you design around the mash efficiency? I am just trying to understand how the mash compared to total efficiency may steer a brewer in the results of a finished brew. Next up IBU’s ! Sneezles61
Again that’s fine when doing your own recipe, but if you are trying to match recipe and the recipe gives you an exact volume for your additions you need to stick to it to get hops bitterness etc correct. You also want the abv to be the same. So you need to adjust your grain bill accordingly. That’s only if you wanted to replicate a recipe to the tee. I don’t do all grain kits but if I did I would just do a sloppy mash and hope for he best. I think that may be why kits only use 65
Sloppy probably not the best term but I would mash thick and small sparge and maybe not stir or recirculate.
I’ve not done a kit for a long time, although, I will look at kits grain bill for ideas. Again knowing what I can do, either by building up a grain bill, knowing what I can expect for a gravity reading, is how I build my grain bill. Matching a brew to a TEE, well, I’m not going there. I will get close, tweak to what my taste buds like. Today will another brew day and I have my grain bill on paper, will be emulating what I’ve read on a style, lager of course. Hops on the lower end is what eludes me. Sneezles61