Looks Good.
-IMO there is no point in a mash out with BIAB. When you lift the bag out it is effectively finishing the mash and you are better off sparging. Start with 5-6 gallons of water and sparge with a separate 170 water with the bag lifted out of the pot bring up volume to 6 gallons via sparging
-Dripping won’t be enough, especially if you don’t sparge, you are going to have to squeeze the F’ outta that bag. Get some thick rubber cleaning gloves or just be badazz like me and swear out of pain as you are squeezing.
-Hothead is the least interesting of the Kviek strains IMO. Hornidal and Voss are more flavorful.
I’ve scanned three times and only se .5 hops plus .5 hops where do the other 1 oz come into it.
I saw in each of the lines .5 and .5, same on the next line… I suggest Mr O brew with his atenuare… He will discover that BIAB doesnt require as much effort as some believe… Again… We are rooting for you! Sneezles61
Atenuare… learned a new word. But yes this should alleviate my concerns with the process. I’ve got a new stove, new kettle, new wort chiller, and a new brew process. I told you my wife said I was anal.
I’m actually looking forward to starting, but we have family coming to town and a camping trip with the grand boys. I’ll be starting in May. I visited the local brew shop and they have everything I need.
I’ll adjust the Lovibond along with the SRM and AA for the hops based upon what I actually use from the local brew shop.
Brew a pale ale or IPA recipe and reduce the 60 min bittering charge. Load up the hops late and dryhop for flavor and aroma.
I find a lot of times when people say “I don’t like IPAs” it’s due to the bittering charge and even more often because of some hop presence they just don’t enjoy like a strong pine or for me grapefruit flavor.
Edit: Responded to an earlier post before seeing your later post regarding the C hops pale ale. Glad you took my advice before I even posted! hahaha
I think you may want a little more bittering in that beer to be honest. That’s about 15 IBU bittering and only about 20 total including your late addition. I bitter my IPAs to about 28-30 IBU. I would try to get your bittering charge(60 min) up closer to 20 IBU if it were me…it’s your beer though…or your wife’s.
Ok help me out here. I want to make certain I’m calculating the IBUs correctly. As a reference I used two different tools. The first was an Excel spreadsheet I put together that used the formula and efficiency factors from the book Clone Brews by Szamatulski and checked it against the Brewer’s Friend on-line calculator. I’m updating the AA% for the Cascade (6-8%) and Centennial (9-12%) based upon the hops at my local brew shop and their advertised AA ranges.
The spreadsheet calculation is basically IBU=(oz of hops x AA% x %Utilization)/(wort in gals * 1.34) This gave me an IBU of 33-44. The Brewer’s Friend on-line tool came up with an IBU of 37-50.
Am I doing something wrong? And if so how did you come up with an IBU 15-ish?
I’m working on a spreadsheet to capture all of my brews and to calculate some of the recipe things automatically. I’ll update based upon feedback here.
OK MY MISTAKE. I input your hops to an 11 gal batch in Beersmith by mistake. Sorry to throw a wrench in the works. Looks like you’re in good shape with the recipe.
I was concerned about your BU:GU ratio but it’s in the right range. Still something to consider when half or more of your hops are late. When I brew a beer with lots of late hops additions, I look at BU:GU ratio from the perspective of just the bittering hops because that’s usually what your mouth/brain will perceive as bitterness in the finished beer. For a pale ale which you generally want between .4-.8. In this case I get 28 IBU(60 min hops only) divided by your 46 GU is .6 so right in the sweet spot.
Wow! I tested my new kettle with the spigot and immersion wort chiller today. What a difference. I was very pleased. We had some good winds today with temps around 75F. I used my high pressure burner and boiled up 5.5 gallons of water. The pot performed well with a minor issue. There were no leaks either cold or under boil. The minor issue is a white washer that was supplied with the ball valve. It seemed to deteriorate under the heat. Doesn’t appear to be needed, so its coming off. Took 45 minutes to boil under a medium flame. I didn’t bring to a rolling boil. I put the chiller into the boiling kettle for about 10 mins and shut off the heat. Started the chiller and took the temp at ~200F. Fifteen minutes later it was less than 100F and by the time I moved it from the kettle to a 5 gallon bucket it was around 90F. This is well worth the cost in $$ with the savings in time and process.
I installed a barbed fitting with at 3/8" hose to the ball valve and opened the valve it into the 5 gallon bucket. No lifting the bucket into a tub and trying to pack with ice. This is the safest way to do this part of the process.
I packed everything up and now its time to start getting ready for a family visit in 5 days. I’m planning to start this batch in May. We will likely be in the high 90’s or low 100’s F outside. I’m looking forward to learning how to brew in this environment. Should be a blast doing the pale ale BIAB. I did tweak the recipe a little, bumping up the 2-row and munich to bring the total grain weight up to 9.75 and the OG/FG/ABV to 1.51/1.15/4.4 Can’t wait to get started with this and drink it in the triple digits of July in the desert out by the pool.
45 minutes seems long to get to a boil. Are you sparging with cold water. I figure to get about 3. 5gallons of wort when I pull the bag bring I start boiling that then I dunk sparge the bag in another 3 gallons of 170+° water for 10 or so not so much as a mash out but to keep it hot then I dump that into the pot that is close to boiling already
I thought the same but he said “a medium flame”. Personally I crank it until I get to a boil. I enjoy my brew days but no desire to extend the time it takes.
@olanwade, my other thought was with regard to this statement, “I didn’t bring to a rolling boil.” Why? Did you get a rising foamy hot break at least?
All - This was a TEST of the kettle and chiller. I had assembled everything and wanted to check for leaks and try it all out so I was familiar with it BEFORE brewing.
I know, I know. Why? As a retired engineering project mgr and military it’s ingrained in me. I can’t help it. Practice, practice.
I could have kicked up the flame as my high output Camp Chef burner is capable. I just didn’t see the need and having under heat for a while would expose any leaks as things expand and contract. I also did a check on heat retention by taking it to strike temp and removing the heat. An hour later I was still within my mash temp for my upcoming BIAB. I know it doesn’t take into consideration 9-10 lbs of grain in the water, but it was sufficient for my TESTING. I’m
What a waste of time. You could be watching your fermenter bubbling. If it was going to leak it would have leaked heating the strike water. Don’t over think this stuff it should be relaxing.
I was relaxed and having fun. My wife couldn’t believe I was enjoying watching water boil. I was sitting there enjoying a brew and listening to tunes.
I’d rather go through this now instead of trying it all out with wort in the kettle. To each his own. All is good
I think Big O did it right… I had a few issues when I first started and hot liquor is… well… hot! Next time he’ll do a real practice… Is there really such a thing? hhhmmmm… Sneezles61
When I started I went into my fermentation room (our closet) and watched the bubbler for so long a fell asleep.
My wife came in the room wife half of my body in and half out and she thought I had died.
