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Adding Faucets to Fridge

Can someone provide maybe a link to a previous discussion on installing faucets in a fridge door? I figure this has already been discussed to death, so I didn’t want to ask the same old questions that have already been answered numerous times. What I need is a list if parts for 4 faucets, and any tips that will make things easier. I already have the cornies and CO2 tank.

Who do you recommend as a supplier?


Someone sent me this parts list. Anything missing?

Perl Forward Seal Faucet

  • 6" Stainless Shank
  • Beer Wing Nut
  • 1/4" MFL Tail Piece
  • Neoprene Shank Washer
  • 1/4" Flared Nylon Washer
  • 3/16" Beverage Tubing (5-10 ft)
  • Worm Gear Clamp
  • Liquid Ball-Lock Disconnect (for 5 gallon Cornelius Ball Lock kegs)
  • Economy tap handle
  • Faucet Wrench

Your shank length depends on how thick your door or sidewall is. You could go cheaper than a 6" if you don’t need that much. A 3/16 tailpiece will be easier to get on, but 1/4 will work if you warm it first. I have never used or needed a faucet wrench. With four faucets, you’ll also need four gas QDs, 1/4 tube, and a manifold or four body reg… I guess you could swap lines every time you serve a different beer. Northern Brewer and kegconnections are the first that come to mind, but there’s other suppliers. I would also recommend keg lube for O-rings and gaskets.

One note for nerds out there is that if there is more surface area inside the fridge that is exposed, the colder the handle and beer in the shank will stay. No need for 3 inches if your fridge is thin, but I would say keep at least an inch exposed of the shank on the inside.

Many times a vendor will offer a “special” price or “sale” price for a package deal. Watch for those and save some $$$. Here’s an example. Cheers!!!

I think I might spring for 4 of those. How hard is it to get different sized shanks? The fridge I plan on using has had all of the plastic removed from inside the door and I have sandwiched the insulation between 2 sheets of plywood that I painted with dry erase board paint so I am not sure how thick it is. I guess I could always wait and measure it when I get home but by then the urge to buy new faucets might desert me. :slight_smile:

Thanks for all the help.

Regarding the faucets, is stainless steel the way to go? Chrome will eventually flake, no?

Since the kegs will be under continuous pressure, will they become overcarbed over time? As my system is now (cobra taps), the kegs are under pressure, but I keep the valve to each keg closed until the serving pressure gets weak. Maybe this is not a concern?

With the new draft system, I guess I will have to force carbonate individual kegs over several days at whatever the serving pressure is since all the kegs will be under the same serving psi? Make sense, or is there another way?

Yes, all stainless is best. I don’t shut off the CO2 valve when a keg is attached. I just set & forget. It carbs up in a week or two and doesn’t overcarb unless the pressure is too high. Mine works best around 10 psi. That varies by system. Cheers!!!

You’ll gain a lot of room inside your fridge if you can remove the molded door shelf. Underneath that you’ll find that the door is just foam board. I replaced the molded front with a sheet of cheap dairy-board type material. Essentially it’s fiberboard with a melamine finish. Then I had to reattach the weather stripping with a staple gun so the door would seal, as it was originally sandwiched between the foam board and molded panel.

By removing the door panel, I was able to fit two more kegs inside the fridge! I also built a small wooden shelf to even out the space where the crisper drawers were in the bottom, so it now has a flat bottom. I store jars of washed yeast and “short” beers underneath (SN-type bottles). Head on over to the “Post a Pic of your Kegerator” thread for some good ideas.

There are a couple of good videos on YouTube. Just get on and type Kegerator in the search area. Lots of good ideas and how to demos.

Here are a couple pics to spark some ideas. Cheers!!!

Very nice. I will be doing something similar only my fridge has already had the molded plastic trays in the door replaced with thin plywood bolted thru to the outside and the front has been painted over with dry erase board paint so I can write all over the front of the fridge if I wanted to. I just ordered 4 forward sealing Perlicks and am trying to decide how many to install in the door of the fridge. I think I can only fit 3 serving kegs inside at a time but I bought 4 faucets because eventually I will convert a chest freezer because this fridge I have isnt going to last forever. I guess I will mount 3 on the fridge for now.

Thanks everyone. I’m thinking of drilling a hole through the side of the fridge so I can put my CO2 tank outside, and free up more room for 4 cornies. Any issues with pressure since the cornies will be at 40F while the tank will be at ambient air temp in my garage, which will fluctuate. I can keep the tank in the fridge if need be, but it will be cramped.


Great pics. What do you call the connectors that attach the beer lines to the QDs? It looks like you have some kind of attachment that allows you to remove the line from the QD, I think.

Shouldn’t be a problem, as I understand the pressurized co2 tank is liquid and when placed into your keg it turns into gas which requires energy, creating cold. This is why your regulator gets cold when a lot of co2 moves out of it.


Great pics. What do you call the connectors that attach the beer lines to the QDs? It looks like you have some kind of attachment that allows you to remove the line from the QD, I think.[/quote]

The QD’s are hose clamped but they can be removed by unscrewing them. Here’s what they look like.


Barb Swivel Nut

Also, Be careful drilling holes in the fridge. I found a diagram of the refrigerant & electrical lines on the bottom front of the fridge behind the cover at the louvered cover. When I drilled the hole in the side for the CO2 line I first drilled a small hole on the inside and felt around with a nail to see if there was anything in the way. Then a bit larger hole for more visibility & then drilled the final hole with a step bit. I found a couple rubber grommets at the hardware store to dress up the inside & outside holes. Cheers!!!

If I use 3/16" ID beer line, can I plan on about 2-psi for every 1-foot of line? So, 12-psi of gas will be needed to push the beer through 6 feet of line?

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