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90 degree shank?

Here’s a question for all you kegerator mad scientists out there…

I’ve got a closet in my garage that conveniently shares a wall with the kitchen. I’d like to move the kegerator in there and have 4 taps through the wall with soome nice tile work and a drip tray. The trouble is it also shares a wall with a stairaway, so the part of the closet I need to use is only the height of the landing in the stairwell (about 50"). I’d like the taps higher than this but obviously don’t want shanks sticking through the wall in the stairway! Does anyone make shanks that make a 90 degree angle? I don’t want to use towers as it’s not the look I’m after. Any other ideas?

Thanks for any help…

I still cant imagine what angle you need to hit or etc…(may have to be a see it before I can envision it kinna deal–Photos?) But the closest thing to what your looking for ( anything 90 degree ) would be this. ... d-338.html

If your looking to have taps/shank/wall to line not in the coldbox or run through a trunk line you will have major issues with foaming and beer staling also increased beer stone and line/ tap contamination issues due to the warm beer always left in the line/tap head. If you run short lines right up to your shanks and insulate real well you might get away with it if the taps are drawn at least every 2-3 days as you cannot keep the line cold forever without a dedicated forced air/ or glycol trunk line feeding the wall taps.

Its a wonderful idea and would look sharp, I just precaution anyone delving into the project to consider the real effects to leaving warm beer in lines for prolonged periods. You may say now “OH NO PROB” I am pulling beers all day every day. But I just suggest to be real here and if even one tap will have a possibility to be left idle for over one week then consider a dedicated trunk line.

Even a few inches of unrefrigereated space? I could insulate the cavity in the wall where the lines run and have a fan to move the cool air, but I didn’t think it would be worth the trouble… Thanks for the link by the way, I think those would work nicely…

Yes, This is exactly what I am speaking too. You are thinking if insulated it will stay cold enough. NoNo. Possibly for 3 days at a max depending on ambient air temp. But the beer in the line/ shank and tap will strive to reach room temp and insulation only slows the process. Then you will find warm pours, foaming issues and again higher rates of beer stone and contamination. All professional draft runs are always incased in trunk lines up to towers/ walls etc…short or long runs. They do it because the aforementioned issues are detrimental to customer satisfaction, product stability increased cleaning costs/ needs affecting profit margins.

You dont have a worry about cost perse, but customer :wink: satisfaction might be of interest to you.
It is very simple to craft a 5ft or whatever your needs will be forced air trunk line from the cold box that will keep everything primo from pint to pint. Just saying it all before you waste your time to see subpar results then have to go the “right” way eventually. But if set to run and your ready to reinvent and pilot the engineering of the “new” draft wheel, by all means.

I found a 24" wall shank for going through thick walls. If I could bend it I think it would be long enough to get into the kegerator. Since it’s metal, if I insulated it would it conduct enough cold to keep the beer in the line fresh? Check it out… ... 73-p175333

Werd, Now the wheels are spinning even faster I see. That could forking work man.
Because of the diameter being very small and the ability to cut to length you may get away with it staying cold enough under (proper/ meaning in my eyes over insulated)insulation although the same premise applies and it will try to reach room temp, the biggest thing overall is the shank base and tap head will always rest at room temp. The only real issue I see is getting the S/S line mounted and permanent into the coldbox without some super engineering (maybe flare the end inside a flange to keep it in place inside the cooler?) I do recommend looking at building a simple trunk also just to see all the options on the table before committing to one

Don’t get me wrong sometimes the hunt and the commitment/ tinkering/ engineering alone are the fun of stuff like this. But you asked for comments so I gave the one/s I think will serve you best in the long run. In this situation a trunk line will always work best as it is mounted out of the way you are not reaching or grasping for disconnects/ line every time you change out a keg or other also think long term ergonomics too key words here are Long term, No hassle, Maintenance free, otherwise if it is always a pain to change a keg out or get into the chest or clean lines or other misc… you will be back to the coldbox outside the wall in no time.

Edit* I spoke too soon. The line and shank are both chrome plated brass?, I think, I dont know if they braze S/S line to a chrome plated brass shank here or what. Its not a huge deal either way but S/S will last a lifetime and beer being acidic will eat away at the chrome overtime exposing the brass. I’m sure this is all known I just will not be the one advertising S/S unless I know it is for a fact.

Huge help, thanks! Just so I’m sure we’re on the same page, building a “trunk” means bringing the refrigerated space right up to the back of the taps right? I just thought of a simple solution as well. The cieling of the closet is 52". That would put the maximum height of the taps at about 48-50" off the floor in the kitchen. Do you think this is high enough? At this hieght I could use standard shanks straight into the cold box…

That would put them ~12" above a normal counter height I think.
One simple way to check before you punch holes in the wall:
Put a piece of masking tape at 48" and see if it would be awkward to get the 'ol beer hole right onto the tap in the event that there’s no glasses handy.

I think your picturing the scheme of what a trunk line does. Indeed, you bring it right up to the shanks so the whole assembly stays close to beer temps.

I was looking at micromatics site last night to find other tips, but didn’t see the right one to point you to, well a quick look today gave me the right way to head you off to. I think this link is an all inclusive description of what your trying to accomplish. Their methods and descriptions are apt, but there are many ways for you to use what you see fit as well. There are many other articles within their site and you may find one that speaks to mounting directly up to a wall situation as this one goes into towers mainly, but the basics are here anyway. ... d-419.html

Great stuff, thanks guys! I’ll probably just insulate inside the stud wall cavity with rigid insulation rather than use pvc, but the same concept should work. Sour foamy beer definitely would be a drag…

Instead of a straight nipple, you can use one of these on the end of a regular (short) shank: ... -3-16.html

Any ideas on a cheaper blower? Since I’ll have much more space to work with the insulated stud wall, I don’t think I’ll need the special tube blower. I just need to make sure cool air gets up to the back of the taps…

Do a internet search for “building a kegerator tower cooler”.

Part of the problem solved, and construction has begun! My very cool wife actually suggested using the kitchen pantry, which has a full height ceiling. I figured it would work but didn’t want to steal the pantry space, so it was awesome she actually suggested it. Now I have plenty of space to work with. My plan is to use rigid insulation to build a duct that will house a 4" ac fan along with the 4 beer lines exiting the side of the keezer. This should keep things cool right up to the back of the taps. Has anyone out there done anything like this? Suggestions?

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