What release of that book do you have? (I’m assuming Complete Joy of Homebrewing)?
I ask because on many of the staple books, including How to Brew, later editions were basically edited to reflect that transferring the beer out of the fermentation vessel carries risks that far outweigh the potential benefits.
In homebrewing 10-20 years ago, yeast strains were much less dialed in, and were susceptible to autolysis (cell death, when the cell walls rupture and leach out proteins and all of sorts of organic material into the beer that can give it meaty, cheesy, (effing nasty) flavors) after a much shorter period of time.
These days, with yeasts manufactured and essentially genetically manipulated to withstand weeks, even months of exposure to alcohol, racking to a ‘secondary’ is really a worthless step IMHO (also in many award winning homebrewers’ HO’s). You can oxidize the beer very easily, pick up an infection, and most significantly for us homebrewers that are fond of tinkering, take it off the yeast too soon (like when we see those magical airlock bubbles stop) and have a host of other problems like diacetyl, acetaldehyde, etc. that could have been avoided if you had just left the beer on the yeast for another week or two.
Try your next 1.060 or below beer just 3 weeks primary, straight to bottling. All other things in your process equal, you will be happy.
Regarding quick turnaround beers, I would second what people have said on English Pale ales (ord. bitter, prem. bitter, maybe ESB), scottish ales, and malt-forward blondes, ambers, low gravity stouts, or even a few lower-gravity belgian styles. I think the key is lowish gravity, malt or yeast-forward beer without a lot of gimmicks, borderline overpitching, and careful manipulation of fermentation temp.
I did a steam-type beer with a huge pitch of bavarian lager yeast in a 1.060 beer, fermented at 60* for a week, raised to 68 for 4 days, then straight to keg. Turned out great.