I will be tweaking it myself as I don't like to do the exact.
Changes I will Make:
1. Maris Otter grain for the DME
2. Whole leaf hops for chinook
3. Using Belgian Abbey II from Wyeast
4. Will Be aerating with 100% Oxygen (advantage of being a paramedic)
5. I have about 3lbs of light DME in case O.G is not 1.100
6. Millenium hops for bittering
Here is the recipe from the book for those who are not familiar:
- 4 gallons cool water
- 1/2 pound crushed cara-Munich barley
- 1/2 pound crushed special B barley
- Grain bag
- 2 teaspoons gypsum
- 13.2 pounds light liquid malt extract or 11 pounds dry light malt extract (65 minutes)
- 2 ounces Tomahawk hop pellets (60 minutes)
- 2 ounces Chinook hop pellets (20 minutes)
- 1/2 pound cane sugar (20 minutes)
- 2 teaspoons Irish Moss (20 minutes)
- 1/2 pound Demerara sugar (10 minutes)
- 5 teaspoons yeast nutrient (after cooling)
- Water to the 5 gallon mark
- Yeast: Wyeast 1214 Abbey Ale or White Labs WLP570 Belgian Strong/Golden Ale.
- 1 ounce pure cane sugar (day
- 1 ounce demerara sugar (day 9)
- 1 ounce pure cane sugar (day 10)
- 1 ounce demerara sugar (day 11)
- 1 ounce pure cane sugar (day 12)
- 1 ounce cascade hop pellets (day 13)
- Distillers yeast (secondary) (day 13)
- 1 ounce pure cane sugar (day 13)
- 1 ounce demerara sugar (day 14)
- 1 ounce pure care sugar (day 15)
- 1 ounce demerara sugar (day 16)
- 1 ounce pure cane sugar (day 17)
- Champagne Yeast or Wyeast 3021
- 5 ounces priming sugar
- Aquarium pump/hose/aerating stone setup
SG: 1.100 (at the start of primary fermentation)
FG: "With this many small sugar additions and this big a beer, final gravity is anybody's guess!"
Final Target ABV: 14-16%
Note: Day references in this recipe above are approximations. The day that you actually begin your post primary fermentation sugar additions may vary depending upon fermentation temperatures.
1. Fill a grain bag with the crushed cara-munich malt and the crushed special b malt. Tie off the top and place the bag in your brewpot filled with 5 gallons of cool water. Add the gypsum to the water. Heat the pot and stir the water and grain bag every 5 minutes.
2. As the water reaches 170 F (77 C) pull the specialty grain bag using a large stirring spoon. Hold the bag above the brewpot for a minute, allowing most of the liquid to drain into the pot. Do not squeeze the grain bag.
3. As the water begins to boil, remove the pot from the heat. Add the light malt extract. Stir to prevent clumping and scorching on the bottom of the pot. Return to heat.
4. Allow the wort to come up to a boil. After preboiling for 5 minutes add the Tomahawk hop pellets and stir. Start timing the 1 hour boil at the point that you can make this hop addition.
5. 20 minutes before the end of the boil, add the Chinook hop pellets, 1/2 pound of cane sugar, and the irish moss, stir for one minute.
6. 10 minutes before the end of the boil add 1/2 pound of demerara sugar and stir for 1 minute.
7. At the 60 minute mark of the biol turn off the heat source. Stir the wort clockwise for 2 minutes as you build up a whirlpool effect. Stop stirring and allow the wort to sit for 10 minutes.
8. Chill the wort in a cold water bath to a temperature of 70 - 75 F (21 - 24 C)
9. Transfer the wort into a carboy. Add the yeast nutrient.
10. Pitch the primary strong ale yeast into the carboy. Top up the wort to the 5 gallon mark with water. Set up the aquarium pump, hose, and aeration stone, and oxygenate beer for 1 hour.
11. After the vigorous primary fermentation slows down (around 8 - 10 days) you will hear the airlock bubbling less frequently. Once this slowdown occurs, alternate between 1 ounce of pure cane sugar and 1 ounce of demerara sugar additions to the carboy every day for 5 days straight.
12. A few days after the primary fermentation slows down, transfer your beer into the sterilize bottling bucket while you clean out the carboy. many yeast cells have grown in this sugar rich environment, and you want to leave the layer of dead yeast cells that have dropped to the bottom of the back as you transfer to the bottling bucket.
13. Add the cascade hop pellets to the empty sterilized carboy. Transfer the beer back into your sterilized carboy and pitch your secondary super high gravity yeast. A good yeast starter is a good idea. Set up your aquarium pump/hose/aerating stone unit once again and aerate the beer for 1 full hour. Again you will be adding 1 ounce of pure cane sugar followed by 1 ounce of demerara sugar the next day for 5 straight days. The difference here is that you begin the sugar additions the day you transfer and aerate the beer for secondary fermentation. Secondary fermentation should last 1-3 weeks. 2 weeks after all fermentation activy subsides your beer should be ready to bottle.
14. For this high gravity beer, you will be adding additional yeast at bottling to make sure that the beer has fresh yeast for the bottle conditioning. While transferring the beer to the bottling bucket, use a cup of the beer to dissolve the champagne yeast. Add the Champagne yeast mixture to the bottling bucket and stir well. Now add the priming sugar dissolved in 1 cup of boiling water to the bottling bucket and stir well before bottling.
15. In another 3 weeks, your beer should be ready to drink. This is another long keeper and will mature well with age. It will be better after a year of aging, if you can wait that long