Sanyo 4911 conversion (with pics)

[passlaku]

Given P-J's advice we decided against the the 5.25" square and went with an 8" square around.
He claims that "8" square of plywood to give the tower a wider base and provide extra support and stability. The board is silicone sealed (glued) to the top of the refrigerator. The tower bolts do not go through the refer cabinet. I installed "T-nuts" in the board so that the tower bolts to the board. I used a forstner bit to make the "T-nut" flush with the bottom side of the board. You only have to remove some extra "fin" material from the plastic lid."



We used a combination of alcohol (tequila) and corn starch on the top of the fride to find the freon line. For as much as everyone claims that the "just drill in the center and you'll be alright" idea is good, the line is spot welded to the skin of the fridge. So even if you decide to drill a small hole and feel around for the freon line you'll be too late. In reality, there is some variation in these units and where the freon line is located. This is an invaluable step.


Line was found.

Marked the location of the line and the desired place of the tower.



Drilled through the metal.


Drilled through the insulation and stopped short of the plastic internal liner. Where upon P-J drilled the liner from the inside out in order to give the unit a very clean look, clean indeed.

Metallic duct tape was used to keep the insulation from crumbling into the fridge.


More tape to make for a good seal.




The 8" piece of wood was then drilled and bolts were hammered into the wood. In this case, the wood is siliconed to the fridge and the tower is screwed to the very solid piece of wood.


The wood was then taped with the duct tape.



More tape...



The plastic top, the gasket, and the tower were fastened to the fridge.



There you have a Sanyo 4911 with a dual tower.




P-J set me up with a very nice manifold.



Boy, oh boy, am I greatful for P-J's help. My description above is what I understood was going on and not P-J's; so all mistakes or explained justifications are mine and not his.

I am thinking VentMatics and a 20# cylinder of CO2 are in my near future. We had a great time and I wish more of you all were here to enjoy this work.

[ChuckJaxFL]

Are you able to shut the door with the kegs in there, and the bottom door shelf installed?

[ChuckJaxFL]

Nevermind...

Search is my friend.. shelf.. remove.. flip.. drill new holes... gotcha

[tom.dewire]

Can you fit a 10lb CO2 tank in there?

I know a 5lb will fit?

Anyone, anyone?

[P-J]

A 10 pounder will not fit unless you do additional modifications to the box. Even then I'm not sure that it would. A 10 pounder is fairly large and the space inside the refrigerator is limited.

[CorpulentCoder]

Nice write-up.
You know, by the way, if you remove the interior door trim you'll be able to comfortably fit the 5# CO2 tank and two cornies inside.

[nucivil02]

We used a combination of alcohol (tequila) and corn starch on the top of the fride to find the freon line.

How did this help you find the freon line? What did you look for to be able to mark the location of the freon line? One last question, what was the proportion of alcohol and corn starch?

[johnsma22]

We used a combination of alcohol (tequila) and corn starch on the top of the fride to find the freon line.

How did this help you find the freon line? What did you look for to be able to mark the location of the freon line? One last question, what was the proportion of alcohol and corn starch?

Heat heat generated by the refrigerant line will evaporate the alcohol and leave an dark outline in the light colored corn starch and indicate where the line is.

John

[nucivil02]

I can see from the pictures that you have your CO2 tank outside of the refrigerator. I am wondering where you drilled the hole in the refrigerator for the gas line that goes inside.

[P-J]

I can see from the pictures that you have your CO2 tank outside of the refrigerator. I am wondering where you drilled the hole in the refrigerator for the gas line that goes inside.

The co² line (3/16" beer line) was fed through the drain hole at the base of the cooling plate in the inside back. It's on the little shelf in the back. No drilling required.

HTH

Re: The question on alcohol and corn starch: Just mix corn starch with alcohol until you have a "paint" about the consistancy of well - thin paint. Rubbing alcohol works very well as the alcohol content is high and will exaporate faster. Brush it on the top metal skin of the 49xx and then plug it in. The condenser line that crosses over the top will heat up and evaporate the alcohol fairly rapidly. It will leave a stark white line on the top.

HTH

[Vorm]

When I converted my Sanyo 4911, I just used water in a spray bottle to mist the top of the frig with. After a few minutes it was rather obvious where the line was.

You can fit a 5# CO2 tank inside behind the kegs, but it must rest it on the little ledge that sticks out with the drain hole in it. It's really thight, but it will fit. You do have to remove the bottom door shelf though, but it just pops off. I built a little shelf that rest on the ledge with round cut outs for the Kegs. This keeps the CO2 tank firmly resting on it so that it won't fall over when you take the kegs out. I'm at work so I don't have any pics with me, but will try to post some later.

I honestly don't see any way you could get a 10# tank in there.

[lordhop]

So my question is can you fit a commercial keg in there with a sanke adaptor along side a corny witha ball and pin setup? Or am I going to need to purchase a low boy adaptor for my commercial keg?

[RadioRandy]

So my question is can you fit a commercial keg in there with a sanke adaptor along side a corny witha ball and pin setup? Or am I going to need to purchase a low boy adaptor for my commercial keg?

lordhop, I was just about to post the same question! I've yet to see a pic with two corny kegs with commercial "sanke" couplers. I was working at my local brewery yesterday and measured the keg with the sanke coupler and came up with 33". This includes the added 1.5 or so inches for the curve of the beer line.

[Cheeseburgher]

The fridge will fit commercial kegs with the regular sankey-there's ample height that you don't need a low-profile coupler. I believe you can fit one corny keg plus a commericial 1/6 keg (I don't think two commercial 1/6 kegs would fit though). Personally I removed the door molding and replaced it with Lowes "Mark R Board" which gives me ample room for a slim 1/4 keg......more economical than buying 1/6 kegs.