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Keezer collar and lid light. How to get around it?

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Chinaski1217

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Post Sat Jul 16, 2011 9:36 am

Keezer collar and lid light. How to get around it?

I'm in the process of studying up on building a collar for my chest freezer that houses my kegs. Building the collar is straightforward enough, but I can't find much info on getting around my lid light. I've got a light on the lid of my chest freezer that lights up when the compressor kicks on. I guess it's only purpose is to show you when the freezer's running, so I wouldn't mind if it didn't work anymore. The cord from the lid light runs from the bottom of the back of the freezer (the same hole as the main power supply) and enters into the back of the lid. The problem is that I don't have enough slack in this line to accommodate a 3 or 4 inch collar as I see it.

So, for those of you who have a lid light on their keezer, how did you get around it to attach your collar? I don't know much about wiring, so I don't think I could rewire anything.

Any help is appreciated.
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sonex

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Post Sat Jul 16, 2011 9:44 am

Re: Keezer collar and lid light. How to get around it?

If ya don't want the light to come on the easy solution would be to remove the light bulb. I'm a keep it simple kind of guy.
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muddywater_grant

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Post Sat Jul 16, 2011 10:01 am

Re: Keezer collar and lid light. How to get around it?

Why not just splice in a couple inches of wire?
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kh54s10

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Post Sat Jul 16, 2011 10:15 am

Re: Keezer collar and lid light. How to get around it?

Chinaski1217 wrote: I don't know much about wiring, so I don't think I could rewire anything.

Any help is appreciated.


This should be very simple wiring. Look for some similar wire. I would guess that the light is low voltage so you could probably just twist the wires together (solder them if you can) and wrap with plastic electrical tape. Try to make sure the splice is in an area that will stay dry - no condensation.

Or you might be able to trace the wire to the source and disconnect it. - inoperative light then.
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Chinaski1217

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Posts: 637

Joined: Sun Aug 02, 2009 6:29 am

Location: Erlanger, KY

Post Sat Jul 16, 2011 10:45 am

Re: Keezer collar and lid light. How to get around it?

sonex wrote:If ya don't want the light to come on the easy solution would be to remove the light bulb. I'm a keep it simple kind of guy.


True, but this wouldn't solve the problem of not having enough slack to allow for a collar. The wire that runs the light only has a couple inches of slack, so raising the lid 4 inches isn't possible at this point.
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Chinaski1217

Master Brewer

Posts: 637

Joined: Sun Aug 02, 2009 6:29 am

Location: Erlanger, KY

Post Sat Jul 16, 2011 10:48 am

Re: Keezer collar and lid light. How to get around it?

kh54s10 wrote:
Chinaski1217 wrote: I don't know much about wiring, so I don't think I could rewire anything.

Any help is appreciated.


This should be very simple wiring. Look for some similar wire. I would guess that the light is low voltage so you could probably just twist the wires together (solder them if you can) and wrap with plastic electrical tape. Try to make sure the splice is in an area that will stay dry - no condensation.

Or you might be able to trace the wire to the source and disconnect it. - inoperative light then.


Sounds doable. Do you have a keezer, and if so, does it have a light on the lid? Is this method how you got around it?
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Chinaski1217

Master Brewer

Posts: 637

Joined: Sun Aug 02, 2009 6:29 am

Location: Erlanger, KY

Post Sat Jul 16, 2011 6:58 pm

Re: Keezer collar and lid light. How to get around it?

Sorry, bumping myself.

Anyone else deal with this type of freezer? How'd you accommodate the light?
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TheTooth

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Post Sat Jul 16, 2011 9:11 pm

Re: Keezer collar and lid light. How to get around it?

I have a keezer with a light in the lid, but the cabling was long enough to reach without issue. I am planning to build a new collar from 2x8 instead of 2x4, so maybe I'll be facing the issue then.
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kh54s10

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Post Sat Jul 16, 2011 9:28 pm

Re: Keezer collar and lid light. How to get around it?

Chinaski1217 wrote:
kh54s10 wrote:
Chinaski1217 wrote: I don't know much about wiring, so I don't think I could rewire anything.

Any help is appreciated.


This should be very simple wiring. Look for some similar wire. I would guess that the light is low voltage so you could probably just twist the wires together (solder them if you can) and wrap with plastic electrical tape. Try to make sure the splice is in an area that will stay dry - no condensation.

Or you might be able to trace the wire to the source and disconnect it. - inoperative light then.


Sounds doable. Do you have a keezer, and if so, does it have a light on the lid? Is this method how you got around it?


Don't have one. Just got into this hobby. Just did my second brew. The keezer is very high on my list. Watching CraigsList and the local papers for a really cheap chest freezer that is small enough AND big enough... :lol:
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560sdl

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Post Sun Jul 17, 2011 8:11 am

Re: Keezer collar and lid light. How to get around it?

Chinaski1217 wrote:Sorry, bumping myself.

Anyone else deal with this type of freezer? How'd you accommodate the light?


You really have two simple choices if the wire is not long enough to accommodate the height of the collar.

1. Cut the wire and put tiny wire nuts or electrical tape on each of the two wires on the feed side of the lights (coming up from the bottom)

2. Cut the wire and slice in 6-8", or whatever you need, of the same or larger gauge wire to extend the length.

Seriously, those are the only two choices unless you choose to do nothing.
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Chinaski1217

Master Brewer

Posts: 637

Joined: Sun Aug 02, 2009 6:29 am

Location: Erlanger, KY

Post Sun Jul 17, 2011 8:24 am

Re: Keezer collar and lid light. How to get around it?

TheTooth wrote:I have a keezer with a light in the lid, but the cabling was long enough to reach without issue. I am planning to build a new collar from 2x8 instead of 2x4, so maybe I'll be facing the issue then.


Was it long enough already, or was there extra slack that you were able to free up by, say, opening the compressor/motor/power housing (maybe there was some extra cord that was bound up in there)?

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