I’m going to brew a barleywine soon (still trying to decide which one, Denny’s or Jamil’s… any preference?) and I wanted to take 7 or so gallons more from the mash, and do a single-hopped EKG bitter with WY1469.
My question is, once I lauter and batch-sparge (at 170) to get my ~8gallons of wort for the Barleywine, should I dough-in again at 150, and rest for a while (if so, how long?) or just keep batch-sparging to get the wort for my bitter?
If you are not adding any more grain you can just do a 2nd runnoff.
If you are adding some more grain then you want to let it sit for 30 minutes (specialty grains only) or 1 hour (more base grains).
You won’t have much sugar in the grain if you mash and sparge to get the barleywine. Make the BW with first runnings (you’ll need a mashtun big enough to hold all the grain and all the wort at one time), then add the sparge (and maybe some more grain to boost the gravity and/or to change the character, if you do you’ll obviously need to mash again) and drain for the smaller beer. If you do add grain and mash, you can do a sparge on that mash to boost efficiency.
i did my first partigyle a while ago. I did a no-sparge for the original beer like shadetree suggested. then i mashed the same grains again at 153, for an hour, while my other beer was occupying the burner.
I added a little extract to boost the gravity of the second beer. turned out great
And if my mash-tun is not big enough, I shouldn’t even try to get a small beer from the spent grains?
[quote=“Worts_Worth”]And if my mash-tun is not big enough, I shouldn’t even try to get a small beer from the spent grains?[/quote]You could mash to get a lower volume of higher gravity wort from first runnings, then dilute to reach your boil volume - you’re looking to get the correct final volume and OG from the first runnings. Then you can figure out the sugar remaining in the grain and adjust your sparge volume and/or add some DME or grain for the small beer.
[quote=“S.Scoggin”]i did my first partigyle a while ago. I did a no-sparge for the original beer like shadetree suggested. then i mashed the same grains again at 153, for an hour, while my other beer was occupying the burner.
I added a little extract to boost the gravity of the second beer. turned out great[/quote]
What was the purpose of “re mashing” for an hour if conversion was already complete? If you didn’t add any more grain you should have just been able to sparge out the rest of the sugars.
But with a 48qt rectangular cooler I’ll get maybe what, 3.5 gallons from the first runnings at 1qt/lb, I don’t think I can push that up any? Dilluting that with 4 more gallons of tap water would make my gravity sink to levels that even the most vigorous of boils couldn’t significantly reduce. Or no?
[quote=“Worts_Worth”]But with a 48qt rectangular cooler I’ll get maybe what, 3.5 gallons from the first runnings at 1qt/lb, I don’t think I can push that up any?[/quote]With a 12-gal cooler, you can mash up to 20lbs of grain with 9.5 gallons of water and get 6.5 gallons of 1.072 wort which will give you five gals with an OG of ~1.094 (this assumes 65% efficiency, which is about right for big beers but you’ll need full conversion). You’ll have three gallons of 1.072 in the grain, so if you add another 6.5 gals of sparge, you would get 6.5 gals back at ~1.023 and could boil it down to five gals at 1.030.
Ok-- that’s worth a try for sure.
So should I scale down the old stoner recipe to 20 lb total in promash, or choose another recipe? Any reccomendations?
[quote=“Worts_Worth”]So should I scale down the old stoner recipe to 20 lb total in promash, or choose another recipe? Any reccomendations?[/quote]20 lbs will be pushing the MT to the max volume, so you should probably scale it down to 18 lbs, then add some DME to get your desired OG. Or make less than five gallons, but with a BW you’re likely going to wish you made more as your supply runs low.
So if I scale it down to 18 lbs, should I keep the water at 9.5 gallons?
[quote=“Worts_Worth”]So if I scale it down to 18 lbs, should I keep the water at 9.5 gallons?[/quote]Estimate that the grain will hold about a half qt of water per lb - so with 18 lbs you’d lose 2.25 gallons to the grain so you would need 8.75 gallons plus equipment loss (wort left in the mashtun when you drain it). Are you using any brewing software or just going to wing it?
I use promash, but haven’t put it in there yet. I do know how to tweak it in the program, but I do thank you for your help. Its easier to get a direct answer than mess around with software.
[quote=“Denny”][quote=“S.Scoggin”]i did my first partigyle a while ago. I did a no-sparge for the original beer like shadetree suggested. then i mashed the same grains again at 153, for an hour, while my other beer was occupying the burner.
I added a little extract to boost the gravity of the second beer. turned out great[/quote]
What was the purpose of “re mashing” for an hour if conversion was already complete? If you didn’t add any more grain you should have just been able to sparge out the rest of the sugars.[/quote]
at the time, my reasoning was to save time. my other beer was occupying the burner, and my cooler held temps better than my extra kettle. i guess i could have let the grain sit until my other wort was off the burner, but i hadn’t really thought about that…
I did a no-sparge on the partigyle, just the first (second) runnings with more volume. then added extract (i have a ton on hand for starters) to boost the gravity. finished out at 1.015-16. I’ll try to just sparge it next time. but it still turned out great
Nothing wrong with what you did and your explanation makes sense. I’ve got a couple extra burners so I never even considered your situation.
In retrospect i probably should have mashed warmer to stop enzyme activity, and get to a boil more quickly. but i think that was OK since i added extract, which i’m sure raised the FG a bit. I usually like my stouts and porters finish 1.016 or above. glad i didnt do anything detrimental to the batch. this was my first partigyle, and it sure taste good
:cheers:
I am very interested in being a parti-gyle brewer. I had 2oz. of EKG and Cascade. I thought why not experiment so I made recipe on hopville to create 8 gallons with a OG of 1.057, SRM of 8 using a larger amount of Marris Otter and some Caramel 40L.
I split this into two beers, I was shooting for an ESB and and APA. If anyone has knowledge of parti-gyle a 1/3 and 2/3 batch would throw my one third way high with OG and SRM and the 2/3 does not fit the APA bill. I ended up boiling one 3 gal batch and one 5 gal batch but I ended up swapping wort between the two to try and raise the OG and SRM in the 5 gal a bit. I also planned to add boiled water to the 3gal (my reasoning is I only have two pots and my original extract pot is only 4 gal.) I ended up hopping each with one hope all the way thru. I have been doing this for a little while so I know enough to be crazy but not full of knowledge or experience. I ended up boiling the 3 gal with 1.4oz hop 60, .4 hop 30 and .2 hop 1min using all EKG and the 5 gal was the same schedule of Cascade. I am in the primary with each and ended up with close to 4 gal of each. The EKG used Safale 04 and the Cacade used the 05.
I am not sure of the actual gravity but feel I am fairly close and read up on how to recalc FG to see if I was correct with my OG. It was my 1st time using my new refractometer and had no distilled water to calibrate and halfway though noticed it was sitting at .005OG while clean? In any case I think I hit 1.053 ESB and 1.043 APA (maybe I will consider this just a pale ale since it is a low OG.)
Sorry this is winded but I thought I would put this all out there since I don’t see many posts on Parti-Gyle and with that said, I read up as much as I could and thought I would just go ahead and start off with trial and error. I will try to post back to say how things turned out but I am sure I put enough information on here to have more experienced people pick me apart or question me. Thanks in advance for any information (good or bad.)
