New Kegger with a noob problem

[jobu]

*** Update ***

So I fiddled with a couple things. Being my 1st time really working with a C02 setup, I took my time. It was nice having a release valve on my regulator and on my keg as I could test pressure to the keg. I was also able to push the hole in the 'OUT' connector to ensure pressure\beer was coming through. It was. So I was then left with just the poppet. So the poppet had a slot on the top, so I slowly unscrewed it (while attacked) and I got pressure beer coming out of the top of the poppet. See picture.

So now I think I am where SGwink is. I did take the poppet apart and saw the spring and the pin, but didn't know what to do next, so here I am. I will probably try what SGwink did remove the pin and the spring to see if the beer starts flowing through the tap. If this works, I'll have to make a mental note that this may not work when the keg is under more pressure (when carbonating the beer).

JoBu

[jobu]

Sorry Sneezles61, I missed your question. It's the basic out-of-the-box 2 keg system from Northern Brewer.

http://www.northernbrewer.com/draft-brewer-flex-keg-system

[Sgwink]

Once you remove the spring and valve in the poppet there is nothing to compress the spring in the tap line coupler. That's why it becomes essential to remove both. It makes a straight line through the system. However. You won't be able to take the coupler off without fully releasing the pressure in your keg or you'll have a beer fountain! Mine seemed to hold serving pressure no problem in this configuration. I wouldnt suggest it for every batch but after I took my poppet off 5x in a row with gunk in it, I had to try something.

[uberculture]

I think we're talking about different things. "Poppet" is the spring/pin assembly in the post, the part that's screwed to the keg. It looks like in your picture, you unscrewed the top of your fitting. If you take the pin/spring out of that, you won't get anything. The pin in that plastic fitting pushes down on the pin in the post, allowing beer to go through. What @sgwink meant (correct me if I'm wrong) is to

1) Remove the gas line from your keg
2) Release any gas pressure
3) Unscrew the "out" post from the keg
4) Remove the spring and pin (poppet) from that post
5) Screw in the "out" post back into your keg
6) Hook up your liquid out connection
7) Reattach gas

[voltron]

[Sgwink]

Exactly @uberculture .sorry for calling the whole piece the poppet. Before you put the liquid out coupler back on, you need to remove the spring and valve as well or there will be no way for beer to flow. (Since the poppet is no longer there to simultaneously open the "out" valve.)

[jobu]

Okay, first off thank you all so very much!

I am glad I took a picture as it seems it has helped you guys assess exactly where I am stuck. So in Voltron's picture, I just need to remove the item labeled "poppet valve" which sits between the "pin lock gas fitting" and the "short gas dip tube".

Having said that, can I disassemble the that "out" post without transferring my beer? Is there any risk of something falling back into my keg (of beer) when I disassemble it?

Jobu?

[voltron]

Relieve the pressure in the keg first, and you'll be fine. No need to transfer the beer.

The wrench size for the new kegs is typically 11/16", but some other kegs may be 7/8".

[sneezles61]

Holy moly Mr. V... now theres a great schematic! Thank you! Sneezles61

[voltron]

Not mine, just one out there on the internets I used to refer to.

[brew_cat]

You guys are making this way to complicated

[sneezles61]

More of an expanded view that some of those that haven't taken any apart might see how? Sneezles61

[jobu]

This was it, the schematic was very helpful as this was the first time I had started to take a keg (or outlet) apart. And when I did, I found a lot of funk on the spring. I had to clean it one or more times before it finally started to flow.

Thank you all very much.

[sneezles61]

Get used to it... I disassemble mine quit abit for cleaning and maintenance.... Just something that needs to be done.... Sneezles61

[WMNoob]

...and for sanitizing.

[hd4mark]

I agree. It's a pretty simple. CO2 pressurizes the keg, you open the faucet and the pressure pushes beer out.

The only times my system has ever not poured is when hops or a mesh bag got stuck in the dip tube or the CO2 tank was empty.

I would invest in a couple of spare QDs (quick disconnects). You can never have too many and the spares are handy to run cleaner or sanitizer through. I have also heard mistakenly swapping the gas and liquid QDs can damage them but I have done it and they still work.

Most ball lock kegs have a slot cut or dimple in the handle of the gas in so you can find it under bad lighting like in a bar. The few I have that do not, I labeled with a Sharpie IN/OUT so I don't screw up. Another helpful reminder is grey=gas black=beer. Keg lube or just dunking the QD in water first make them go on easier.

[brew_cat]

I think the key is to not dump loose hops in the keg. I had a bag break once clogged the dip tube but never got as far as the quick connect. Stuff happens

[WMNoob]

I dry hopped a cannonball. Bad idea not to contain them. Next time I'll bag 'em and secure 'em.

[uberculture]

My claim to shame: kegging day, I thought I had a tea ball for hops, but I was mistaken. I sanitized a ziplock, poked some holes in it, loaded it up, and tossed it in. My holes were a little big.

[hd4mark]

Those tea or spice balls have always worked best for me with pellet hops. They contain the hops and don't get sucked up in the dip tube. When the keg is empty just dump them out, open them up and tap the spent hops out into a garbage bag.

I have noticed that the clasps corrode and have to be replaced. I just use a piece of SS wire.