For an iPa using 2row, caramel 40, and carapils for malts…nugget hops for bittering…simcoe and mosaic for flavoring, aroma, and dry hopping…US05 for yeast…anybody have a good one?
If you have access to Bru’nwater, I would try the yellow dry or amber dry profile, depending on how much crystal 40 you use. If you don’t have Bru’nwater, I would try to shoot for around 100-110ppm sulfate, around 50-60ppm chloride, and maybe 50ppm of calcium.
Start with soft water and just add enough gypsum and Calcium chloride in a 2:1 ratio to get yourself between 50-100 ppm of Calcium.
There’s really no way for anyone to give you a water profile without knowing what water you’re starting with. Add gypsum and calcium chloride just because it’s an IPA? May not hurt it but may not necessarily make the beer better either.
If you’re going to shoot in the dark my opinion is you’re probably better off doing nothing. Get your water analysed or start with distilled then you can create the correct water profile for the beer you’re brewing.
Also clearly dependent upon the weights of your grist and volume being brewed.
[quote=“dannyboy58”]There’s really no way for anyone to give you a water profile without knowing what water you’re starting with. Add gypsum and calcium chloride just because it’s an IPA? May not hurt it but may not necessarily make the beer better either.
If you’re going to shoot in the dark my opinion is you’re probably better off doing nothing. Get your water analysed or start with distilled then you can create the correct water profile for the beer you’re brewing.
Also clearly dependent upon the weights of your grist and volume being brewed.[/quote]
I assume the OP is asking for a finished water profile, not the specific additions to his water. I could be wrong though.
Bru’n Water’s pale ale profile is always a good choice, but you might want to shoot for a kettle pH of 5.2 if you go this route. I’ve been reducing sulfate from the 300ppm starting point in this profile to around 150-200ppm as it can be a little harsh, but it’s all about what you want the final product to be. For a bitter, biting IPA, 300ppm sulfate is perfect.
[quote=“mattnaik”][quote=“dannyboy58”]There’s really no way for anyone to give you a water profile without knowing what water you’re starting with. Add gypsum and calcium chloride just because it’s an IPA? May not hurt it but may not necessarily make the beer better either.
If you’re going to shoot in the dark my opinion is you’re probably better off doing nothing. Get your water analysed or start with distilled then you can create the correct water profile for the beer you’re brewing.
Also clearly dependent upon the weights of your grist and volume being brewed.[/quote]
I assume the OP is asking for a finished water profile, not the specific additions to his water. I could be wrong though.[/quote]
That was my assumption also. Maybe we’re both wrong…
Edit: Nope. He asked for a profile, not additions…
Then I stand corrected. Porkchop gives good advice. I use the pale ale profile for my IPAs too. Also am reducing the sulfates to 200 or so on my last few batches for a bit less dry bitterness and more body with focus on the aroma and flavor.
Sorry…forgot to add that I am building up from distilled water and using bru’n water 
Pale ale profile. If it’s bitterness you want to accentuate then go 300 ppm on the sulfates by adding gypsum, if you keep the chloride/sulfate balance you’ll have enough calcium to make it a purty crystal clear ipa also.
Anything under 70 IBU i’d drop the sulfates to below 200 for better mouth feel and balance. Just my .02. My current IPA on tap is all centenial and cascades 50/50 at about 250ppm sulfates. It’s got a nice bite but I’d like a little more malt to back it up and the grist has it in there so i feel like the sulfates are still a bit too high on this one.
There’s a whole thread on IPA pH you should try and search for. search on perfect IPA pH and i think you might find it. Very good info regarding pH from mash to glass, sulfate levels, etc for IPA.
Edit: for what it’s worth and totally off the subject but IPA related…for my next batch of IPA I’ll definitely dry hop at room temp of 70 or so for 5-7 days prior to moving the keg to conditioning/serving temps. I think the aroma of my IPAs and PAs has been suffering due to my process of kegging, dry hopping and chilling simultaneously.
I have had a similar experience with dry hopping…definitely going to cold crash then let it warm up to room temp and dry hop. Thanks for the info everyone!
