Interesting paper for those who are trying to brew more authentic-tasting German beers:
http://www.germanbrewing.net/docs/Brewing-Bavarian-Helles.pdf
To answer the obvious question: No, I haven’t tried it yet. I’ll post results if they are good. If the beer is terrible, I’ll keep it a secret so I don’t have to hear I-told-you-so.
I found that article a good read. So, if I listen to what I read, that may be why the crisp malt forward eludes me. I will be brewing tomorrow, working on a cream ale, this will be a great one to start an experiment on to see ifn I can git the crisp malt flavor into my brews… I have a hose that I’m splashing wort all over the place! 
Thanks Old dawg, so have you tried this approach yet? Sneezles61
I’ll try the Munich Helles recipe as soon as my sodium metabisulphate arrives - my local shop has only potassium meta and apparently that can cause other problems.
I mash in a 10-gallon water cooler, so I’ll crush my grain directly into the cooler, set the lid on gently, and blow CO2 in from the bottom. I can also run strike water in from the bottom. I’m wondering if I can stir the mash gently enough to avoid oxidation there. Maybe if I trickle in a little CO2 from the bottom I can get away with it. Then I can seat the lid firmly, do the Beta rest, and repeat the process for the Alpha rest. I can CO2-purge my fermenter and fill it from the bottom.
I’m not too enthused about all the hassles of checking gravity frequently enough to catch the optimum gravity for transfer. I’ll probably just transfer to a keg when it’s convenient after fermentation slows down.
There’s an interesting discussion on the BrewsBrothers forum. Some of the folks on there are a little more excitable than I feel is necessary, but it’s informative: Any of you guys in the FB German Brewing group see the latest? - Beer - Brews Brothers
I’m brewing today, I do a BIAB(basket). So I will use the campden tablets, as thats what I have on hand. I will pre-boil my water, and after crushing my malt, I will try pressing/compacting my malt to squeeze a little more O2 out. I have a port for whirl pooling and will use that exclusively for this brew and not use the floppy doppy hose. I am going to ferment in a keg too, so I can be sure to purge O2 from that also. I will put in the yeast, let it git going then add the O2 like the article talks… I’ll post back after I’m done to tell you how my brew day went and see ifn I can find other ways to remove O2 BEFORE the malt can oxidize. Sneezles61
Just read the discussions over in that camp. Yes they are like a bunch of red ants after their mound had a stick to it! Still, even with my equipment ifn I at least try, I will have tried. I do have a copper IC, maybe scrub it with star san to remove oxidation before I just toss it in the kettle… Wait, there goes eliminating O2, gently immerse… Sneezles61
And done, I shall name my ale disastrous ale… I tried low O2, just can’t mash in well without stirring the pot. Well, once mashed in I went outside patrolling around the yard, come in up to 170!! Shut it down,cooled it off, then proceeded. Took my pH, about 5.6, I didn’t fuss much with that. Mash complete, threw in my bittering hops cranked up the burner, to the boil, very vigorous. IC was soaked in star and and scrubbed, it went into the kettle whilst it was still boiling added irish moss, 15 minutes later put in the final hops and killed the burner, chilling commenced, about 5 minutes into it there was an unusual sound… IC sprung a leak, into the kettle! Shut everything down, out to the garage for a repair, back in the brew room cleaned IC again and commenced. So I finally got to empty the BK into a keg and that will also be a new trial and error for me. So with all that went wrong my SG is at 1045, should’ve been about 1060. 10 pounds of grist and I usually git 80 efficiency from my set up. Lawn mowing ale, maybe won’t even start the lawn mower! Sneezles61
I read the article and was curious.
I have a friend who’s orginally from Germany and spent most of his professional career as a master brewer at AB. I told him about the article and he called bs on most of it.
Good to know, I solemly promise to never repeat this experiment… PROMISE… Sneezles61
Same here. It’s a bunch of baloney. How long ago did they brew light Pilsner? Hint - it was after the English started making white malt. 
You should ask you German buddy if he thinks Kunze and Narziss are full of baloney
And also should the question be axed about the oxidation COPPER brings to the party…. Weren’t the Germans the first to design and manufacture their kettles of oxidation laden brewing kettles? REALLY ? Sneezles61
I am one of the Authors of the paper, and in the time since its release, I realized that it may be a tough pill to swallow (though you did a great job breaking it down!). I have created a site dedicated to Low oxygen brewing (www.lowoxygenbrewing.com) and we have just opened up our forums (www.lowoxygenbrewing.com/forum/) When I took the incremental approach it started to really catch on, and I am seeing great reception to the methods and best of all people are loveing the results!
Thanks
Bryan
I’ll be heading over there for a look see! Sneezles61
Bryan is this taken place of the German forum
Yup, this encompasses that and all styles.
Bryan
I’m trying to digest some of what I read. There were some links I clicked on and nothing showed up. It could very well be me, as I have all sorts of hurdles trying to manipulate the web. Although, I did gather some info that I will need to do a sample myself to evaluate. Chiefly, about the keg purging and filling. I know a few on here have stated they do utilize that. I haven’t, no real reason… Sneezles61
