DIY - Tap wall and 'tower' cooler

As a newbie I really appreciate all your efforts and the detailed info and pictures of your project. However, looks like you really need to examine your obsession with beer and how it is brewed and dispensed. Not being a dedicated brewer I may be out of line, but just sayin. A garage dispenser? On the other hand your fabrication skills are amazing.

What material are you using for the cooling conduit that is included in the dispenser tubing? Will the tower really keep the lines cool in the heat of summer in Houston? And how hot does it get in the summer? Sounds like a real challenge but it also sounds like you are up to the task. Please keep us posted. I may want to adopt some of your techniques.

Super cool build you have going @Tripod. Will be fun to watch your progress for sure

Progress has slowed a little since I’m waiting for some parts to arrive. I realized that the shanks I ordered don’t fit flush to the faceplate. The shanks are made for the curvature of a 3" towers and I just determined the OD of my faceplate is closer to 4". I ordered these as an economical solution: Keg Beer Towers Draft Kegerator Chrome Outside Flange - 4" Diameter Tower

My fan arrived from Amazon so I thought I would work on the tower cooler. Here is the fan I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R7VS6HX/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_3?smid=A235LT0EDLFSAR&psc=1.

For the hose I went to Home Depot and bought a sump discharge hose kit for about $12: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-1-4-in-x-24-ft-Sump-Pump-Discharge-Hose-Kit-EBHK24/205618043

The hose came with a couple adapters and I modified the larger adapter and attached it to the fan using both super glue and hot glue:

For the “T” fitting in the tower I got a 3/4" PVC “T” that fits tight inside the hose:

The hose is 24’ in the package. I hooked-up the blower using all 24’ and it works GREAT. Seems like plenty of airflow. That’s great news since my final set-up will be using less that half this length (which will increase the final CFM at the hose outlet). I hope to have plenty of cold air flow for the HOT Houston summers.

So all-in…I’m at about $30 for a 52 CFM tower cooler.

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Very creative! If your collar doesn’t fit quite right… You could wrap sandpaper around the pipe and with back and forth motions, sand the collar to fit like a glove…
I’ve got to put a fan in my keezer… I’ve got the fan… Now to kick the 2 kegs si I can take it out of service…
Keep the progress pictures coming! Sneezles61

No updates for quite a while due to the crazy busy holidays and awesome vacation time! So…I’m posting LOTS of photos - enjoy!

I’ve got the taps up and running with 3 of the 6 taps operational. I had to order new ‘sleeves’ for all the shanks to accommodate a 4" curve and the new sleeves only fit half of the shanks I bought (some of the shanks were larger than others). Anyway - I need to exchange those shanks so the new sleeves fit.

This whole process involved LOTS of ‘putting together’ and ‘taking apart’…LOTS of test fitting.

Test-fit - placing the tower on the exterior wall to find the perfect final location:

Test-fit - the ‘block’ on the back of the wall to support the uber-heavy tower

Test-fit - start working on the internal insulation for the tower

Test fit- hose for the cooling fan.

In the end, the left/right cooling hose that you see above had to be removed. There is a “T” that splits the air but I had to remove the hoses because once I installed the faucets there was not enough room for the left/right hose extension. I’m hoping that once it get’s warm there will be enough airflow to keep the shanks cool.

Beer lines installed for one side. The lins are 10’ each.

You can see here that I’ve staggered the elbows to make it easier to attach the beer lines

Lines attached to shanks - set-up to crip the oetiker clamps before final installation.

I cut some plugs out of 2" foam to serve as insulation at the end of the pipe.

Plug installed to make the ‘cool space’ as small as possible.

I cut a new hole in top of my kegerator. The new hole is about 3 1/2" which is plenty large for all my hoses AND if I ever want to re-install a traditional tower, it will still screw into the deck. This photos is before I actually made the cut.

Here you can see the backside of the tower (interior garage wall) and the 4" ABS flange to mount the insulated duct. You also see the insulation to help keep the ‘T’ of the tower cool (and reduce condensation). There is an identical ABS flange on the top of the kegerator.

I used aluminum tape (same stuff used to seal HVAC systems) to attach the flange to the deck of the kegerator. I did not want to put more holes in the stainless steel deck of kegerator which is why I used this tape. It is VERY strong and seals completely. This is the closest thing I have to show the flange mounted to the top of the kegerator. You can see the flexible insulated duct is already attached with zip-ties.

The internal fan I’m using for my tower cooler has a remote to vary fan speed and I needed to extend the wires so the fan is inside the cooler and the controller is outside (I wanted easy access/adjustability from outside).

This is the inside of the cooler, fan mounted and hose running up and out to the tower.

This is the final ‘behind the scenes’ set-up inside my garage. If you look carefully you can see the variable controller for the tower cooler next to the drill.

…And this is what she looks like now. Three out of the 6 are set-up and cold beer is flowing!

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Nice work!

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That Sir, is very snazzy! Attention to details pays off,
Sneezles61

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Very well done! Makes me thirsty for sure

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Impressive!

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I wanted a beer menu…so I built one:

And I finally bought all my faucets and got everything plumbed up:

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I love it. Going to be hard to practice social distancing with a set up like that

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That is a beautiful set up… Very envious of your talent and ambition!
Sneezles61

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That turned out really well! Nicely done!

:beers:
Rad

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Pretty sick work, nicely done!

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Social distancing is difficult no matter what…this makes it impossible :wink:

What a cool setup!! Nice work!

That’s kickass!

Hey @paulthbrit - sorry for the delayed response. I just got back from a couple weeks of camping/hiking. Gotta escape the pandemic somehow :wink:

The curved plate is ‘new’ scrap from a local exhaust shop. It was free but I would have been happy to pay since it’s pretty cheap anyway. I asked if they had any scrap about 10-12" long. I was hoping to get some 3.5" pipe but all they had was 3". After I cut the exhaust pipe in half I put it over the 3" iron pipe and used a block of wood to ‘massage’ it to fit perfectly around the outside diameter.

Black Pipe is EXPENSIVE and I found difficult to find locally. Plumbing shops that did have it were charging outrageous prices. I found Zoro.com. I was able to buy all the black pipe for about 1/3rd of the price locally. They have free shipping and search around for a discount coupon…I got an extra 20% off my first order. Here is exactly what I ordered.

The weld flange was much cheaper than the threaded flange and since I can weld that’s the one I bought. If you do not have a welder you will want to get the threaded flange. I ended up returning the 3x6 and 3x3 nipples and replaced with the 3x10 sections. The 3x10 is about the minimum size to fit 3 taps so I’d consider going up to a 12" nipple. The threads are a little over 1.5" on each side so the 10" nipple only has about 6-7" of smooth/straight pipe.

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Great job! Thanks for the Zoro contact. They look good.

Paul

This looks real slick. Awesome