I also built a 220v electric brewing system from scratch. I have a lot of thoughts here. The first thing that comes to mind is that I get nervous having a boil kettle controlled with a PID. Keep a very close eye for a boilover because it can happen in a split second. You may not have time to change the setting on the PID to turn down the heat. You might have to turn off the power switch to the PID if this happens. I went with a rheostat type of setup called an SSVR (Auber Instruments) for my boil kettle. It's a dial knob that allows me to quickly turn to anything from 0 to 100%. I use the PID for heating up mash and sparge water only. You can make a PID work for a boil, but just be careful! My second concern is that you will need a 20amp electrical outlet for 1650 watts. If you have an older house, you might have 15 amp outlets which are rated for a maximum of 1650 watts. An electrician will tell you that you should never run more than 80% of a circuit's capacity. Check your main electrical panel and read what it says on the breakers. Third, make sure any GFCI's and extension cords are 12 gauge which is rated for 20 amp. Finally, make sure you aren't running anything else on that electrical circuit while brewing. At 110v, a 20 amp circuit will max out at 2200 watts. You can make a 110v system work, but just understand there are safety reasons as well as power reasons why Sneezles, myself and others chose to go with 220v. I love electric brewing. It's efficient. It's indoors out of the cold outside weather. You don't have to deal with propane. I'm sure you'll love it too.
