Hey all. Got ahold of a 15.5 Coors keg for 15 bucks. Been looking at how others have cut their tops off. That seems like it will be nice and difficult to clean. Does anyone see any issues I’m not thinking of if I cut the top off just underneath the upper rim, cut the handles out of the rim and reweld them back on the side? The flat top that would leave me with would allow my current kettle lid to fit right on top. Seems to me like that will allow for easier cleaning. This picture should show where I’m planning on cutting if I was unclear which sometimes happens.
I spent the time to layout the cut and not remove the handles. I did do an earlier keg where I just cut a circle out of the top, it was bit harder to clean. Use tape and be creative while laying out where to cut. I used a 4" grinder and cut off wheels. Do use hearing and eye and lung protection. Sneezles61
I plan on using a plasma cutter and mig welder after filling the keg with water to reduce fused spatter. Should hopefully go nice and quick.
Did some more reading and it says the top ring is what keeps the keg round. Did you have a problem with an unsafe oval keg when you cut through the ring?
I would only cut out the inner part leave the handels on there. With a plasa cutter. A easy job. See if you can weld a ring inside the keg. Where your lid top could easy rest on.
If it did go out of round I can’t tell. I don’t use a lid. I’ll see ifn I can git a pict to post. I am happy with what I have done with my keggles. I have one port to pull liquid out, one port for recirc/whirlpool and another for a sight glass. I do BIAB, and the last B is a basket, from Utah bio-diesel. Sneezles61
Well now, this techy stuff got the best of me and posted a picture over on Wilco’s, still fermenting pumpkin ale… Sneezles61
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That looked pretty nice. Doesn’t look like to much, if any, of an issue with cutting the rim. It does however look like the keg construction is slightly different and could lead to a few differences. I’ll be cutting into it Tuesday so I’ll post a picture when she’s all cut and done. I’m not sure but I do think I still like the idea of the handles on the side. Maybe not so much if I had to use an angle grinder
One of the last important things is the lid as I’ll only use to boil. I don’t keep a lid on much, if ever. Definitely be nice to have the option though
OK, see 
ifn this works, Sneezles61
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I read on another forum that it takes 1.0% longer to reach a boil in an oval kettle. 
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Lol. Don’t know if I could deal with another 0.3 minutes to a full boil
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Got the cut made and the handles cut out and ground down. Welder was down so I have to wait until I have some time at work to take a stick welder to the handles. Coming along nicely. I like the open space I have going into the keggle.
Also I noticed it fits perfectly on my burner. I’ll have to reinforce that and hopefully not have to buy a new one. Little off topic but would I be able to replace the low pressure assembly with a high pressure one? The LP on full with max air intake is a large orange flame that soots my pot
Also I didn’t notice it going out of round either. If it did, not much
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You can use either on the cast iron burner, banjo’s ifn you will. You may have some air blockage in the burner itself, try blow compressed air through from where the flames are back to the air port. Do remove the hose and air plate. Possible the orfice is/has an obstruction? Sneezles61
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I blew out the burner the other day and then tested it. it’s one of these types. Maybe these just aren’t as good?
I have the bigger banjo style, in fact, I bought both of them from our host and one lower pressure and one high pressure regulator. I see a bolt to hold the dispersion piece on. Maybe take it apart to see what, if anything is obstructing the gas flow. Sneezles61
Well got it completed. I’m quite happy with it. The only problem is the SS welding sticks at work were HUGE so it was hard for my buddy in maintainence to get a low enough amperage to not get the stick stuck and high enough to cut through the side. It’s been awhile since he welded SS so luckily I kept the top to dial in the amps.
Ports then too? Sneezles61
Haven’t gotten to that point yet. Still have some time before I upgrade the rest of the equipment to handle the bigger volume. Definitely going to put a weldless ball valve on. I like the idea of the sight glass so that will probably go on eventually. It’s usable at this point though.
