bottling

oxidation as in what. but the mason jars are used for canning when you do that they are under pressure i guess i can try some of both along with the pry off bottles due to i only have 24 of them

Mason jars are under a vacuum when used for canning.
That’s why when properly “canned”, the center of the lid will be depressed.
Meaning atmospheric pressure comes into play to keep them sealed.

true but it is still pressure so how would they work for bottling

or what would be better twist off bottles or mason jars

I have inadvertently used a few twistoffs over the past year, by not noticing they were twistoffs. Did shear the neck off one with my red baron capper(but only one). However I have noticed that the twistoffs don’t hold carbonatiuon very well. Any longer than one month and they are more likely to be flat. And if CO2 is getting out, I wonder what might be getting in-right?
As far as canning jars, no experience with them and beer, although plenty of canning experience. I think they would hold up to CO2 pressure as long as you tighten the ring real well, but I agree with Shadetree that the wider mouth = more surface area and the potential for more oxygenation. There’s a post on the forum about ‘off-flavors’ to look at, but basically oxygenated beer =stale beer. Try a couple and let everyone know how they turn out. That way we’ll all know for sure.

ok i will do that going to have a brew day tomorrow or sunday

True, but pressure ASSISTING the seal, not the other way around.

Got any Buddies that drink pry off beers? Tell to save ya’ a batch or two, or hit your local recycling center and snag some from the recycling bin.

Mason jars? Well I use them for canning both water bath and pressure canning but understand the process of the seal with mason jars related to canning is different than what forces beer will exert on a cap. If you have ever opened a jar (Mason or even a twist off pickle jar) and that pop when the pressure equalizes? Those jars seal because some of the air in the jar is forced out and the water or pressure when they are canned keeps them in contact so that they seal, meaning that the jars are not building pressure like a beer will. Anyone that has canned can attest to what happens if you ever get the rare case of a jar not sealing totally and not being caught so that it gets infected, that jar is blown open with ease by mold/bacteria inside. Who knows though perhaps it would work but I would think other than having a ready vessel to drink out of when the jar is sealed it would not be the cheapest answer you can find.

If you can hit a local brew store usually the standard 12 ounce bottles are sold in a case of 24, two and a half is enough for a batch of beer. Most cost right around 12 bucks a case.

Otherwise talk to your friends that drink domestic pry off bottles or hit a bar recycling bin or the recycling center if you need it now, alternatively look for pry off bottles that have a long enough ridge under the lip and make your own empties. Sam Adams, New Belgium, Sierra Nevada, Odells, Bells, New Glarius are all ones in my area that have readily useable bottles with a scrub and label soak. I would guess that at least the first three listed there are in your area. Keep in mind that some of those such as Sam Adams and New Belgium have proprietary bottles with the glass having the names of the breweries in them, Sierra Nevada does not.

Good luck.

The lids on mason jars will fail. I’ve done fermentations in them for sauerkraut, and the pressure will cause the lid to bend, ruining the ring, and letting the pressure out.

I don’t know whether the plastic lids would do better on the mason jars, but if you’re going to have to buy something new, you might as well buy pry-off bottles.

If you want to bottle cheaply, and you like to drink a pint or three at a time, you can use 1L and 2L PET bottles - for five gallons you’d need $7-$10 worth. Buy generic or store brand club soda, empty them (no need to sanitize the bottles if you just dump them out and re-cap, then fill with primed beer to an inch from the top, squeeze the sides of the bottle to push the beer up to the lip, and screw the cap on tight. As the beer carbs, the level will drop and the bottle will firm up - once it’s good and tight you know it’s ready to chill and sample. When you’re done with the bottle, rinse clean and air-dry, then sanitize for the next run - I typically get at least three uses out of one bottle before the cap’s seal begins to fail.

ok ya that would be a lot cheaper thanks and does it really matter what color they are if they are green clear or brown and if i can get 3 times out of them that is better than haveing to buy bottles and caps

what does p.e.t mean i know its plastic but just dont know the term

It’s the recycling code for polyethylene terephthalate, aka “pop bottle plastic”

Clear and green will skunk your beer if left in the light. Amber p.e.t. will likely be root beer bottles and that will flavor your beer.

ok but for say i put them in a dark place untill they bottle condtion and then put in the frig would they still be skunk

Holy crap man! Just go to the bottle center and offer to give them the deposit for some bottles and end this thread. Just soak them in oxyclean or whatever you use for a while and then use your bottle scrubber to make sure they are clean. BTW, 22oz bottles can be more convenient…

where i live we dont have a bottling center

Yes (dark place). Just pointing out clear and green offer no light protection. So just keep them out of the light as much as possible.

i can do that i will put them in a plastic tote

Clear and green will skunk your beer if left in the light. Amber p.e.t. will likely be root beer bottles and that will flavor your beer.[/quote]

For the last 5 or 6 batches I bottled I used 1 plastic root beer bottle to keep tabs on how fast the carbing is going and I’ve detected no carry over root beer flavor.