I’m doing a recipe kit for a Belgian Dubbel, I wonder on 2 things.
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What effect has the temperature on the beer process? Recipe calls out for 68 to 78 F, readings on my fermenter (sticky thermometer ) is 64 F ( @ basement). Should I move it somewhere warmer or wouldn’t really affect the beer that much?
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Recipe calls to transfer beer into a secondary fermenter after 2 weeks. Is it really necessary? If all it needs is to aerate couldn’t I just remove the airlock and swish the carboy a bit to get air in it?
TIA
What kind of yeast was it and what’s the optimal temperature range for that yeast? Recipe instructions tend to be boilerplate. Having said that, MOST belgian yeasts will work just fine in the range you stated. You’ll get more “character” banana/clove/pepper flavors, from the yeast at higher temps but some belgian yeasts are fermentation monsters that will blow off tons of krauesen at higher temps. I usually fermented my belgians in the same range as my other ales, 60-64ish, so my personal opinion is leave where it is if the temp can remain consistent there. Even at that temp if it’s WY3787 I’d put a blow off hose on that beast rather than an airlock or you may have a mess to clean up.
Secondary is a personal choice. I would not move it to second vessel, some other brewers would. Aeration is NOT the purpose of transferring and will ruin your beer which is one reason many brewers fear the transfer to secondary. Secondary vessels are meant to get the beer off the yeast cake and let it clear up prior to packaging. Please don’t swirl your fermenter after fermentation begins to slow down.
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Don’t use temperature control on a Belgian dubbel let it free rise some Belgian fermentation can get up to 90°F. Make sure you have head space. Also do the secondary and age it this is when you add the oak if you are doing it. You can ferment at lower temperature and get a much cleaner product depends what you like. The higher temperature will give more esters that mature with aging. Then of course you can age in the bottles as well
Fermenting beer does not need to be aerated. This will cause oxidation and staling.
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Yeast is Wyeast 1214, which optimal temp is that 68-78F range, so maybe I should do move my fermenter to a warmer place.
though its been 2 weeks already.
To late to bother moving it now. The key to a nice Belgian beer in my opinion is to underpitch, aerate( on pitching)and ferment at the upper end of the recommended temperature
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oh man…well. Guess will try it again over spring with higher temps. Thanks all.
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Do think. But i can be wrong. Fermenting. Temp. On Belgian style beers are more. Forgiving.
I bet it will turn out like … beer!
I believe Belgiums should start at 70… ( now I’m using Denny’s previous statement). That’s 1.070 and 70F… 
I was putting stuff away/organizing and I see our seedling heating matts claims to raise the ambiant soil temp by 20F… Curious…
Sneezles61
I always do secondary no matter what. I like how it clears the beer and I get great results. You do not want to add oxygen at any point past initial fermentation. And secondary can be a great way to age a beer or store it for an extended period of time. Right now I am drinking beer that I brewed in April and it sat in the closet with temps getting up around 80 degrees for a few months this summer. Tastes great and I would put it up against any beer from a local brewery. And I also prime my kegs instead of doing force carbonation…
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I also transfer my beer to secondary as soon as the head crashes in primary. That way it is still a bit active and will force out any oxygen that might get in from transferring… Just a thought…
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And your IPA’s?
Sneezles61
Just wanted to follow up on this in case someone else has a similar question.
Beer turned out OK, actually pretty good.
As dannyboy58 mentioned, it’s pretty heavy on the banana/clove aroma. Not sure if at lower temps it would be different.
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As I know, it does not have to be aerated! be careful
