1st BIAB in the Bucket - Questions

I suppose you could get that gizmo for checking the gap on spark plugs… IF you are very curious… :relaxed: Sneezles61

AKA a feeler gauge :wink:

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I remember the old fashion feeler gauges that fanned out. You kept adding ones on until it fit the gap. My dad had one. Can’t say I ever had a use for it back then.

Back on topic. @olanwade Can’t you just ask someone at your LHBS what and why they have the mill set at?

How did you do a tune up without a feeler gauge

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I’ll help derail this, then back on track… I use the “fan” feeler gauges when I set up my guitars… very effective!
Now, the more of the kernel you expose, the more you’ll extract the maltose… So bigger chunks you have a hard time getting extraction from the core… BUT, the finer it is, the harder it is to keep from getting a stuck sparge… So I firmly believe its a compromise that works well… Sneezles61

Had gauges just for the points gap and a matchbook to sand them clean if needed.

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@hd4mark I spoke with two different associates and they really didn’t answer why, other than saying we use this mark (a black line at the .070 setting) for BIAB.

At this point it’s a done deal for me. If my beer turns out enjoyable to drink that works for me. If I use another local mill I’ll look at their setting and remember the recommendations from this conversation.

As for the feeler gauges, I drive a diesel so no spark plugs. But, I still have one of the old round spark plug gauges they used to give away if you bought plugs or points.

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I’ll bet some of the young whipper snappers are saying “What are points?” Sneezles61

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Me too. I still use it to check new plugs but rarely are the off right out of the box.

The first LHBS I went to a long time ago actually used a Corona mill. They are made to grind corn for tortilla shells or something, not malt barley. They would turn the wing nut that changed the gap x number of turns for base malt and a different number for specialty grain. Very accurate I’m sure. Still made beer though.

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Well day before yesterday I check the SG. There’s been no activity in the airlock and it’s day 11 in the bucket. The SG was at 1.032 so I closed it up for another week.

My question now is regarding fining agents. The sample was still very hazy, but it still needs to drop another 18 points in gravity to hit my projected FG. I’m expecting it to clear up some more, but would/is adding a fining agent needed? I plan to move it to secondary and would expect that a good point to add, but should I?

I’ve never used anything other than Irish Moss during the boil. I have some gelatin but haven’t used it. I have found that time and temperature, especially time (even in the fermenter) will clear my beer. I know others on here will provide advice to you for using fining agents. As a local brewery guy once said and I think I also read it on here, if you don’t like how it looks use a stainless cup! :joy:

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18 more points is a long way to go after that amount of time. You might have stalled.

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I thought about that. I noticed after using my thief and resealed the bucket it became active again for ~48 hours. Made me wonder if a gentle stir so as not to introduce any oxygen would wake up the yeast?

I thinks I’ll move it to a warmer location. I’m using the Omega Hothead Ale yeast. It’s been at ~77F, but maybe a couple of degrees warmer won’t hurt. I can close it in the closet where it’s warmer, no AC or other things.

Warmer with that yeast won’t hurt. Instead of stirring it I would just swirl it around by gently rocking the bucket. Same result without introducing anything to the inside.

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I swirled the bucket and wrapped her up. Nothing yet. I’m going to pick up another pack of yeast today just in case. If this fails I’ll consider making a starter and reintroduce some yeast into the beer.

Just FYI, I tasted and smelled when I checked the SG. It tasted good, smelled like beer, and had good color. Only thing I noticed was the cloudiness, but I don’t think that’s an issue at this stage.

I’ve been following along and it’s surprising the gravity is still that high. Shes stuck. Rack it to a secondary on top of some yeast. Get the yeast started and do it when it’s activated. It should take off. Not sure what happened 30 days is not that old. How did you aerate the wort?

Hot Head does just fine up to the high 90s. You don’t need any more yeast either. Just let it do its thing. Most likely you pitched too low. I pitch my Kviek strains at 90 degrees

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I’ve given this some thought. The cost trade off versus going forward is a no-brainer. I’d spend $18 bucks for yeast and another $20 for a flask, nutrients, and 1/2 lb of DME for a starter. So, I’m going let it sit a few more days and check the gravity. If she’s dropped and all the senses say it’s still good (look, taste, smell, etc) I’ll keep moving forward.

IF I have to dump it and start over it’s another $10 for yeast and $20 for the grain bill. Makes either solution a $$ wash, but going forward has the chance that it survived and I have a new batch of beer in the frig :sunglasses::beer:

So for now I’ll drink my RC cola, watch Gunsmoke, and wait patiently.

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On the grain mill i have no. Setting either. So what i did i went to a auto part store. Did buy. A feelerset. To adjust valve seats. So this gives me a whole set of different messurement. Exeperiment different settings untill you are happy with your crush

You are not going to have to dump. Kveik is unstoppable. While waiting read the threads about harvesting yeast to you can save it for later. Or read the Lars blog and find out the amazing origin of Hothead. Larsblog

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